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在川北甘南的蓝天下吃草-(6)  

2007-09-12 16:16:12|  分类: 国内旅游 |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

  下载LOFTER 我的照片书  |

更多这次出行的精彩照片: http://photo.163.com/photos/demo-studio/135525506/

 

2007.08.29

 

早上起来去了lisa餐厅吃饭,并没有网上传说的好吃,里面的驴友气氛是很浓厚的,满墙贴的都是留言的小纸条,看一驴友留言的纸条说一种叫“盘开开”的食物好吃,随即叫了一份,看菜单才知道是pancake,味道一般,酸奶其实还可以,浓浓的,就是有些太酸,牙齿都要掉了。

 

出了餐厅,打算先到甘肃的安达多仓郎木寺去逛逛。经过了白龙江,哇,好“大”的一条江啊,大概有1-2米宽。之后开始了一段超级无比泥泞的路,具体怎么泥泞法,就是走到寺门口的售票处,脚上的鞋子大概重了两斤。在白塔前面磕泥巴的时候,一个藏族的大娘骑着马过来,问我们要不要骑马上山,商量了一下,决定我骑一匹,周周和喵喵骑一匹(因为只有两匹马)。上马之后才知道山上是天葬台,心想也不会那么巧,天葬也不是天天有,之前看了网上的照片就是几块石头的乱草堆,上去看看无妨。

 

 

一路上山,景色很好,可以遥望到对面的格尔底寺和寺后面延绵的山脉,山脉的顶上白云环绕,山下有马儿在吃草,很有意境的样子,我们骑在马上晃晃悠悠的渐入佳境

 

以下内容涉及天葬,心理承受能力不好的同志可以跳过这段。

 

到山顶的时候看见天葬台旁边围成圈的经幡,和经幡前面的吉普车。一女游客捂着胸口跑下来,说很恶心中午饭吃不下了。心想真的就这么巧,铁丝网围着的圈子上挂着“游客止步”的牌子,但是门已经给打开了,远处的经幡前面很多人围着一个草堆在拍摄着什么,好奇心驱使我们向前走去,喵喵走到比较前的位置,周周埋伏在我身后,我埋伏在吉普车身后。看见草堆里面有三个藏族人在用什么工具割东西,时不时向四周抛出一些大块的肉状物体。喵喵返回跟我们说看到前面的拖拉机旁边有个像尸体的东西,但是不能确定,她又继续像前迈进。我跟周周一点一点的往前挪,经过拖拉机的时候,看到了那条干尸,是个不完整的小孩的尸体,吓我一条,迂回到草丛后面大概离天葬台10米的位置继续观看,我们这个时候的位置已经比天葬的地方要高出很多,视野超级清楚。拿出眼镜仔细观摩,三个藏族人活干得挺快,已经到敲骨头的部分,拿着斧头在敲类似脊椎的骨头,石头旁边放着刮干净肉的头骨,边敲还边吆喝山顶的秃鹫来吃。观看一阵子,发现天葬台的旁边趴着一具尸体,看起来是一短发的女性尸体,原来以为是下一个天葬的人,到最后也没有帮她天葬,我们怀疑是当地没有钱的人家,不能进行整个天葬的过程,只把尸体搬到天葬台,希望也能让秃鹫把他们的灵魂带到更高的地方看着就已经到了最后的环节,一个藏民拿着斧头在敲头骨,敲了一阵子,头骨并没有完全破碎,就给他丢到了远处,咕噜咕噜咕噜咕噜咕噜的,白色的头骨滚到草里面。三个干活的藏民把手在旁边的草丛里面蹭了蹭,其中一个从拖拉机上拿出一包东西然后放在草丛里面烧掉,我们怀疑是死者生前的一些物品。整个过程就这么慢慢的结束,那些拍摄的人也渐渐散去。

 

总觉得这种天葬的过程不应该开放给游客,对死者也太不敬了,远远的观望也就算了,有的游客走的很近拿着长焦去拍摄,太不应该了,我们开始也拍了几张,后来想想也都删掉了。

 

 

 

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